Home sweet home

Our airport welcoming committee was amazing. We arrived on a domestic flight, so people were wondering why we got such a big welcome...

So, now we are at home happy and warm with the Mando. Our housesitter looked after the house and cat beautifully, it's like time stood still. Thanks Amy!

Unpacking the boxes of goodies we sent home has been fun. It is amazing how small souvenirs can bring back so many memories; places and moments that already seem far away.

First home cooked meal was tacos- yuuuummmm! After rice three meals a day this was perfect. Bacon and eggs for breakfast hit the spot.

Family reunion/ we missed the beach/ 6 months of magnets and tea towels/ Too much excitement...

Next stop Sydney...

Spent our last day OS seeking out a few faves...

Rach smashed her second Haagen-Daas crepe in 24hrs (strawberry cheesecake) while Trav finally was in the mood for a sugar high when near a Mello Yello.

Trav also scored a Japanese 4pen with a mechanical pencil built in. We lost all sense of being while on the Diamaru stationery floor.

We have been really surprised by Japan, Tokyo in particular. It is such a huge city, people and infrastructure, but it has a real chilled out feeling. Almost melancholic.

There are exciting parts of Tokyo, but by and large people just get on with things, on their own, without fuss. Local religion and living on one of the worlds most active faults probably contribute to this.

We will really miss the tempura, the Japanese chocolate, the vending machine culture and the respect that is universal. It is so calm here, and this rubs off on you the minute you hit the ground.

Europe and US was new and exciting, but kind of expected. Japan was a real eye opener, where we had to throw all the usual rules out of the window to fit in.

New and old in Tokyo/ vending machines/ still traveling light and saving 60 bucks by catching the subway to the airport (later spent on excess baggage fee...)/ about to board our flight to Australia

Final full day

Got up early to try and get in to see the Sumo training. They are amazingly quick, have thighs like trees and remain quiet throughout. It is a bit like cricket in that they wait for each other to be ready. When sparing went too far members of each team stood in. Seems to be an unwritten rule that you go easy on the skinny kids but occasionally they win with quick feet.

They collide with a slap and a thud- like elephants running head on. It makes a rugby scrum look polite.

Went to a traditional part of Tokyo, Asakusa. Tourist city, but an amazing street market full of Japanese tourists, school kids, and religious folk.

Tempura dinner at a swanky restaurant with geisha style waitresses was a great last meal. We watched the locals walk, drive and train over 4 levels of the city, labyrinth style. What a view.

Waiting for the other to give the all clear/ the Japanese photo pose @ Asakusa/ Matt you are falling behind!

Fuji hunting

A day of old v new. Visited the ultra modern Roppongi, shopping skyscrapers full of people on every level reminded us why the streets seem so quiet for a city of 37m.

Shinjuku, known for its skyscrapers and guiness world record for busiest station, was awe inspiring with its buildings that do not fit in a single camera shot. The station was like an ant farm- and we were not even at peak. Everyone finds their way- no rushing, no pushing, everyone keeps their distance.

Caught a little rattly electric tourist tram near Mt Fuji hoping that the clouds would clear for the mountain but we couldn't see anything.

We hopped off and a lovely lady worked out what we were looking for (after much mountain and view charades) and walked us out of her way to the coast.

Conversation only included 'we from Australia' and the soccer draw. When we got to the viewing point she screwed her nose up and said 'cloudy' - bugger!!!

Fuji nowhere to be seen but had a walk along the black volcanic sand beach before returning on the journey, this time with some of the commuters heading home. Some of them travel a long way everyday!

Pics- goretex nerds/ a small skyscraper/ view from the government building/ Fuji is there somewhere....

A lot like New York

At first Tokyo was a real culture shock. No English, money with too many zeros (we feel for dyslexic locals with 10000s and 1000s in their wallet- however no one would rip you off here, everyone is very nice and polite) and jet-lagged like mad.

Respect is a big part of the local culture. Kids on the bus fight over who will stand. Shop assistants must have the final bow as you leave the store. People keep their conversations quiet, waiters do not press you to buy a drink. It is a little too much, but being able to pack some of it and take it back home would be great.

We have spent the last couple of days touring Tokyo with non jet lagged eyes. We visited Shibuya to see the busy part of Tokyo- we were wondering where all the people were for days but we quickly found them all. The intersection outside of Shibuya train station is like times square. Like ants going to war.

Today we visited the reclaimed land at Tokyo Bay, and went to the bath (called Onsen). Very traditional, not as good as Baden Baden but much better than Bath. The outside rock pools are the height of relaxation but we don't know how people sit in the 85degree sauna. Side note, when Rach says 'I can't believe how tiny all the Japanese ladies were (nude bath)' Trav's answer shouldn't be 'yes, they probably think you are rich' (there is a link to the larger peeps being rich/regal here). Yes, keep digging that hole Trav.

A movie at Tokyo beach (MIB3 in 3D) was better than expected, and the monorail over Tokyo bay at night was a fantastic way to end the day. The bay area looks a lot like the main river in New York, but the Tokyo faux Eiffel tower gives it away.

Pics- just like in lost in translation/ refreshed after the Onsen/ can't swim at the local beach, liners nearby/ beautiful view of the city

Sad to leave ...

Our last day in Kyoto greeted us with some rain. During the day the gentle shower which made everything twinkle turned in to a downpour at night with passing cars saturating us like in the movies.

A big day of local culture. We visited the Fushimi Inari-taisha shrine, thousands of orange gates winding through the forest, it was pretty special. At night we took in a traditional kabuki show- ornate costumes, a lot of very different music and a male lead playing the part of the leading female. The crowd clapped for every actors entrance and anytime something of note happened.. i.e. a lot.

Fushimi Inari-taisha shrine/ Trav's special seat at the kabuki show/ wet hair, pants, socks etc.

New friends

We are far more novel in Kyoto compared to its bigger sister Tokyo. School kids are amazed at Rachel's blond hair and figure while many 'wows' and giggles are had over Trav's size.

The local school kids, especially those on school excursion, are encouraged to start conversation with people that look like they speak english. For many it starts and ends at 'hello', and then they discuss what was meant by 'have a nice day'.

Went to the famous Nishiki food markets. They are never ending and every kind of Japanese ingredient is on show.

Based on a recommendation we found a very old school knife maker. They used to make samurai swords, and the craftsmen do not finish the knife until it is bought- making a sharp edge and engraving your Japanese name.

The geisha show in Gion was interesting, but the highlight was the traditional 3 man puppet. One for each of the arms and one for the head and body.

Gold leaf @ Kinkaku-ji/ Rach made some new friends/ Kimono fashion show/ 3 man puppet

Snow monkeys

Went out of Kyoto today to the mountain village of Arashiyama. It was as touristy as Japan gets (not very), with a few souvenir stores and restaurants in the main street. Up and down the streets some of the fittest men we have seen on our trip pull chariots of tourists clad in semi traditional clothing with bike shorts.

The monkey park in the hillside forest was a great experience. The 'snow monkeys' were ok with us walking past them, perhaps because they knew that at the top of the hill we would feed them. We passed a whole family on a path- mum and dad were cleaning each other while the baby looked on.

Trav was the main attraction at the Zen temple. The locals had not seen size 15 shoes before, let alone size 15 feet in size 7 slippers. They took photos of both. The bamboo forest at the end of the garden was memorable for the sound of thousands of trees brushing each other in the wind.

Totally different way of thinking here: the train turnstiles remain open and only close if your ticket is invalid.

Japanese equivalent of a gondola ride/ 'Down in front!'/ Zen temple garden

Kyoto

Our hotel is very traditional, and probably the most room and best night's sleep we have had for a long time. Bamboo floors, fold out beds and a bathroom that would fit in most shoe closets.

Went for dinner on the advice of our host to the multistory in the middle of town. Tempura was fresh and crunchy, though Trav drank the sauce thinking it was miso. Nice but rich- they were too polite to say anything.

The dept store underneath was out of this world. It is like they crammed every speciality store in to one.

Changerooms: leave your shoes at the door/ every make every model/ bedtime

Bullet train

We left our ships cabin in Tokyo for the bullet train to Kyoto. We have rebooked our little hotel, but we have upgraded from the 120cm wide semi double to a 140cm double bed. Every cm counts here!

The hikari (2nd fastest bullet train) is like flying in a jet at low altitude. Super quiet, super smooth and just the sound of the air you are cutting through. Front like an F1 car. Camber on the corners to handle the speed, and the scenery is blur for anything closer than 50 metres. A lot of leg room which was unexpected.

Runing early, we changed our tickets to an earlier train, and then struggled to find the platform in time. We found an info desk with the best english so far- hard to find in Tokyo, but seems to be where it counts.

Holding up Tokyo's response to the Tour d'Eiffel/ Leg room great for business travel/ bullet can

Finally we feel like foreigners

The City exists on a number of levels- literally. Office towers, dept. stores on some layers, restaurants on others. Not apparent from street level. It is very clean, and on most streets you can not smoke. Silent with the exception of airconditoners and cars. People keep to the left, and it smells like Japanese food.

Have seen 3 or so people that are from somewhere else. The Japanese are ultra polite. Everybody bowing, even at McDonald's.

In Europe you can kind of piece another language together. Here it is another world, and not a lot of English. At least we can say cheeseburger and fries in Japanese.

We are the most casual people in the City. Tee and sneakers. It is hard to find someone without a collar or dress shoes in this humid place. Everyone has spotless posture, all dark hair, all a similar height. Dainty women in high heels. No overweight people here.

Still getting used to all the bowing, all the thankyous and putting your credit card or cash on the tray. Still trying to work out if those with surgical masks on are afraid of others colds or passing theirs on.

People do not take phone calls in McDonald's, and you can not use your mobile on the train. No yobs getting hammered at the bar, but we did meet a couple of Japanese gentlemen at our hotel's vending machine that had one too many- very giggly after one can of Asahi beer.

Sushi wrapper that separates the nori until you eat it/ somewhere to put your feet while you wait for the green man/ no smoking or littering

Exploring Tokyo

Great solution to soggy sushi- a packet that separates the outer seaweed from the rice. Genius. When you open it takes out the membrane and you are left with the japanese equivalent of a servo sandwich.

Our room, the smallest yet by far, is like moving a Rubix Cube. If you both want to be standing it is impossible. The roof of the shower is lower than Trav's head. The basin and the shower share a tap.

Walked in to Ginza to find the obligatory Zara, H&M and Maccas. Check. Extremely clean here. Everyone is willing to help, but english is rare. Lollipop men on every corner in the tourist zone helping you cross the street.

The cabs here are a real pride and joy. Old Toyota Crowns with every bit of crome and lace possible.

Pics- allergic to gluten/ that is the whole room/ Tokyo u-turn

Hello Japan!

After the mega 33 hour long haul from ADL to NYC we had a fleeting thought of 'Tokyo, 10 hours, it's a synch'. Back to playing 'keep each other awake'.

We found our hotel (read Rach found the hotel) by taking a 'limousine' bus to a notable hotel and then walking to ours. The airport is over 80kms out of Tokyo, music on board meant that we were both in and out of sleep.

Had our first experience of lux loos: a heated toilet seat that opens slowly as you approach, a control panel with 4 different types of flush cycle and a volume button for the music (a lot like the music in the limo). In Oz it's gourmet kitchens, in Japan it's souped up dunnies.

In our sleep deprived haze we found a great little sushi restaurant and the tea found the front of Trav's pants. He can't remember if he dropped it because it was too hot or because he didn't realize he picked it up.

Riding travelators/ the first of many temples

Planes, trains and...

... we are overweight at Heathrow.

This defies all logic. We sent back another 30kg to our most patient and generous Australian agent, Janet (aka Mum).

Up late last night after a great night with Eddie in Chinatown. After dinner we had to book our first few nights accommodation in Japan- just to make sure customs did not accuse us of trying to invade.

We speak ok English, some French and even a little German but Japanese will be the end of us. Even our Lonely Planet is hard to follow- and it is in English.

A view from the top/ bleary eyed in cattle class over Beijing/